Our visit to the Western Hajar mountains marked the halfway point of our epic Oman Road Trip. If you have been following along, you will remember that we already experienced the Eastern Hajar on our route along the Muscat – Sur coastal road and then made our way inland for a desert adventure in Wahiba Sands. The two hour journey north to the Western Hajar through the town of Nizwa is one that was met with a lot of excitement. We conducted a fair bit of research and organised what we had hoped to be a very special couple of days – little did we know that it was going to be the best couple of days of our trip.
Whether you are making it a pit stop on your own road trip through Oman or visiting for the day from Muscat, there are plenty of ways to experience the Western Hajar. Here’s a look at the top things to see and do in the Western Hajar Mountains.
JEBEL SHAMS
Sitting at 3005m, Jebel Shams is the highest mountain in Oman and one of the must-see spots in the Western Hajar mountains. A trip to the top of Jebel Shams is actually done by car along a combination of steep paved and gravel roads. While technically accessible without a 4WD vehicle, I would say that you are probably better off having one and using this stretch of road to practice how to use all the bells and whistles. A 4WD vehicle is not needed on this particular outing, but you will most definitely need one if you plan to enjoy some of the other adventures I have outlined below.
While the ultimate goal of the outing is to get the stunning views of Wadi Nakhr, be sure to enjoy the sites along the way. As you make your way to the entry point you will pass by Wadi Ghul and get a glimpse of the abandoned village of Guhl. What’s left of the old-style mud brick houses of Oman are perched above a real-life oasis and date plantation. In the distance you will also see another spectacular peak called Jebel Misht which makes up part of the Al Akhdar range.
Continue to make your way further up the mountain and you will eventually reach the Jebel Shams Viewpoint. There are a few places to stop along the road but most make their way to the end of the road at the Jebel Shams Resort. It’s here where you will get to admire the stunning Wadi Nahkr and understand why it’s often called the Grand Canyon of Oman.
Jebel Shams is also home to the Balcony Walk – one of Oman’s most popular hikes. If you have the time and want to stretch your legs, this two to three hour roundtrip hike follows the canyons edge to the old abandoned village of As Sab. The starting point is in the little town of Khateem or Al Khatim, located a couple kilometres from the Jebel Shams Resort. There is a sign marked gravel road that will get you there. While we didn’t have enough time to do the whole hike, we made our way along the pathway for roughly an hour and really enjoyed the amazing views.
If you are driving to Jebel Shams from Nizwa, the journey to the summit will take just under 2 hours on Route 21 via Al Hamra. If you are heading direct from Muscat, the drive along Route 15 towards Nizwa and then onto Route 21 via Al Hamra will take roughly 3 hours. Due to the time it takes to get there, Jebel Shams is a popular place to over night and often acts as the base to the hikes mentioned. While we didn’t choose to stay here, camping and simple accommodation can be found at Jebel Shams Base Camp or Jebel Shams Resort.
JABAL AKHDAR & SAIQ PLATEAU
Another popular point of interest in the Western Hajar is the Saiq Plateau. This 2000m high plateau on Jabal Akhdar is nicknamed the fruit bowl of Oman as it’s flat surface and cooler temperatures have made it great place for farming. As with Jebel Shams, Jabal Akhdar is surrounded by plunging canyons so it’s a great place to explore outdoors and soak up the stunning arid mountain views. It’s also home to one of the best hotels I’ve ever stayed in – so if you are looking to treat yourself while in Oman, I’ve got THE place for you (more on this in a bit).
Before you can enjoy the views, you have to get there. Unlike Jebel Shams, you will need a 4WD vehicle in order to make your way to the top of the Jabal Akhdar. While the road on the way up is quite steep and is full of hairpin turns, it’s a nicely paved route and for all intents and purposes is an easy drive. The road to the plateau starts in the town of Birkat al Maws or Mouz, which is a short 20 minute drive from Nizwa heading east on Route 15 or roughly an hour south on Route 15 from Muscat. To make your way to the Saiq Plateau and up Jabal Akhadr, you’ll need to pass the police checkpoint. It’s here where you will get turned around if you aren’t in a 4WD vehicle. There are a few things to consider before driving in Oman, but if you are planning on making this a road trip, do yourself a favour and book a 4WD.
If you do not have a 4WD vehicle and are not planning on renting a car in Oman, you can still drive as far as Wadi Al Muaydin to get a slightly different Jabal Akhdar experience. This wadi is located before the police check point and previously served as the main route up the mountain before the paved roads were laid down. It is here where you can embark on the 17km Wadi Al Muaydin hike to the top of the plateau. If you are feeling like you want the experience without the hard work, it’s probably easier to have a local guide drive you to the top and make the walk down yourself.
As you make your way up to the Saiq Plateau you will pass by the little village of Manakher and the main town of Saih Katenah. For picturesque views of the canyon from the plateau, most people make their way to Diana Point, the little villages of Al Aqr and Al Ayn and further west to the end of the plateau at Bani Habib. Honestly the drive across the plateau is nice and you’ll have plenty of opportunities to stop and check out the views.
Our trip to the plateau bypassed most of standard views as we were excited to get to our end point for the day – the Alila Jabal Akhdar Hotel. This stunning eco-resort is perched on the edge of the gorge offering all the views of the Western Hajar you could dream of.
The resort offers a handful of curated Alila Experiences – gorge walks, nature trails, star gazing and even a bit of adrenaline pumping adventure. Opting for the adventure, we booked ourselves on the Via Feratta rope route that sits literally alongside the cliff just below the hotel. You can’t really experience the canyon if you aren’t dangling 2000m above right? The path takes you over the canyon ledge, through cave mouth, up a vertical wall and then forces you to traverse the canyon itself. It only took an hour or so with the guide and was a nice way to stretch out the legs before we lazed by the pool for sundowners.
The attention to detail on service, the mix of contemporary and traditional Omani design, our lush room, the juniper-berry and rose scented spa, the cliff side infinity pool and the licensed (I know you were thinking it) Juniper restaurant combined with the traditional Alila Experiences made our stay one of my most memorable of all time. I could go on and on about this place – suffice it to say that we would go back to Oman just to have a few more nights at this place. If you headed this way it’s worth checking out Alila Jabal Akhdar availability. If there is no space at the, the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort is another popular, lush resort on the plateau.
WADI BANI AWF & SNAKE CANYON
The Wadi Bani Awf crossing is considered to be the most epic off-road routes in Oman. If you have come to Oman looking for an adventure, this drive into the heart of the Western Hajar is most definitely for you. Making the journey into or across Wadi Bani Awf gets you access to remote mountain villages, epic hiking and canyoning experiences and will leave you feeling like you are driving on another planet. If you have already visited Jebel Shams and Jebel Akhdar, then the roughly three hour Wadi Bani Awf crossing also offers you a different perspective of this slice of Oman.
The crossing is typically considered the stretch of road between the towns of Al Hamra and Al Awabi. If you are following my Oman Road Trip itinerary then you will already be in the Western Hajar and will enter from Al Hamra. If you are making your way into the mountains from Muscat, two hours will get you to the starting point near Al Hamra and an hour and twenty minutes will get you to Al Awabi, which you will pass before entering the crossing. While you can start the drive from either direction, I would recommend entering from Al Hamra and making your way north to Al Awabi (more on why in a bit).
Leaving Al Hamra behind, follow the signs to Hat and Balad Sayt to start your crossing. The initial road is paved and works its way up to the Sharfat Al Alamayn Viewpoint – the highest point you will reach on your crossing. If you do not have a 4WD vehicle or are not planning on making the crossing, this view point is accessible by standard vehicles and is a nice option to check out views of the Hajar mountain range. This is also the starting point for two hikes – W10 which takes you along the ridge where it meets with W9 and then there is also W8, which leads you to the village of Balad Sayt.
Once you make your way past the view point, the nicely paved road turns to into a dirt track and your adventure begins. From here the rough road twists and turns as you descend deep into the canyon. The cliffs are steep, the road is bumpy and the views are everything you are expecting them to be.
After navigating this stretch of road for a half hour or so you will find yourself deeper in the canyon and start passing by the little mountain villages of Hat and Balad Sayt. Each will have sign posted markers that take you away from the main road and into the village. Balad Sayt is often the main pit stop for those making the crossing as its a beautiful, traditional village set within a little oasis. It is also home to the most random football/soccer field I’ve ever seen thanks to it being filmed for an Audi commercial.
We bypassed the village stops and kept driving as we had another adventure on the brain – Canyoning in Wadi Bimah also known as Snake Canyon and Snake Gorge. Driving past it you could see how vast the canyon was and how the many bends in it helped it gets its nickname after a snake.
We met our guide at the Bait Bimah Guest House, changed into our canyoning gear and drove back to the starting point of the canyon. Over the next few hours we ventured through Wadi Bimah by hiking, sliding over and around huge boulders, jumping into pools, swimming through huge ravines and abseiling down waterfalls. If you are an outdoor enthusiast then this is the pit stop for you.
Wadi Bimah or Snake Canyon does offer a couple routes – some shorter, some longer, some less technical and some that you should only really go with a guide and/or the right equipment. We enlisted the help of Canyon Adventures & Tours and had a safe and fantastic experience. I will share these details in a larger post soon – but feel free to contact me with any questions in the meantime.
I read a lot about this drive before planning our road trip and it was clear to me that people had differing views of how challenging the drive was. It made me a bit nervous not knowing what to expect, but having done it, I can tell you that it isn’t as bad as some make it out to be. There are a few things to take into consideration when making the drive that will help make it an enjoyable one. Only make the crossing in a 4WD vehicle and be sure to fill up with gas/petrol before heading out. Pack some snacks and bottled water for the route. Be wary of bad weather and avoid making the crossing if there are signs of rain – those steep, dirt roads are the last place you want to find yourself. Be sure to to also check out the key things to thing about before driving in Oman.
Last but not least, I recommend entering from Al Hamra vs. Al Awabi. Making the crossing in this direction means that you are driving the steepest portions of the route facing into the canyon. I felt more confident driving I was able to see the upcoming turns and any oncoming cars as we ventured into the Wadi. As the driver, it also gave me an opportunity to enjoy the views as I drove. Entering from Al Hamra also meant that I had the opportunity to test out my 4WD skills on our previous trips to Jebel Shams and Jebel Akhdar. This made me more confident, comfortable and probably a bit more daring as I zipped around the stunning canyon. Make the trip. Descending alongside the cliff hugging, gravel roads into this massive Wadi is an experience you will never forget.
NIZWA & Al HAMRA
The city of Nizwa is located south of the Western Hajar range and if you choose to spend a couple days in the region, can serve as a nice base to explore most of what’s available in the area. With activities and accommodation booked in the mountains themselves, we chose to drive straight through only stopping to fill up the petrol and get some goods at one of the large grocery stores dotted throughout the city.
If you have the time or don’t think you are up for hours of driving to check out all the sites in the Western Hajar, then you may want to think about making a stop here. If you aren’t forted out by the time you reach Nizwa, then pop into the grand Nizwa Fort. The complex is typically open to explore Saturdays – Thursdays until 4pm and sometimes on Fridays until 11am. As with with most of the military forts throughout Oman, you can make your way to the rooftop and get panoramic views of surrounding village – and in the case of Nizwa, the Western Hajar. It’s also here that you can see the Nizwa Mosque also known as the Friday Mosque. Note that non-Muslims are not allowed inside, so your best view of it will be from here from the Nizwa Fort.
Alongside the Nizwa Fort and Friday Mosque, you’ll also be able to explore Nizwa’s Old Quarter of Al Aqr. This walkable Old Quarter is quintessential Arabia and your chance to check out a series of traditional souks. Clearly these will be a bit touristy, but be sure to check out the East and West Craft Souks as well as the various food and livestock souks. If you find yourself in Nizwa on a Friday, head to the Goat Market between 8am and 11am. It’s here where you can witness the livestock auctions that take place at the Friday Market.
Most of the accommodation in Nizwa is along the highway both in and out of the city. If you are planning on staying here, be sure to check out hotels in Nizwa to see what’s available during your stay. Nizwa is roughly an hour and a half from Muscat on Route 15. If you are heading North from Wahiba Sands, it’s roughly a couple hours and has connections via Routes 23, 33 and 31.
You will already be familiar the town of Al Hamra as we used it as the entry point to the Wadi Bani Awf crossing. Worthy of its own pit stop, the town of Al Hamra is roughly 40km north of Nizwa and serves as the intersection to a lot of what is accessible in the region. The town itself is a well-preserved and more rustic than the “metropolis” of Nizwa. In addition to walking around and exploring the alleyways of the town, the big draw to Al Hamra is the Al Hoota Cave. A visit to the caves gives visitors the opportunity to explore the underground cave system of the Western Hajar. A portion of the 5km trail is accessible via a guided tour and allows you to experience the wide expanse of the ancient caverns and see the stalactites and stalagmites that you have read about in school.
If the sites of Nizwa and Al Hamra are of interest, it may be worth booking yourself into a private Hajar Mountains tour which will visit these towns as part of a wider trip in the area. A guide will be able to get you to all the sites and give you a local’s perspective of this corner of the Western Hajar.
TRAVEL PLANNING ESSENTIALS: OMAN
While deciding what to pack depends on your personal preferences, the following information may help plan a trip to Oman. From flight and car-hire details to where to stay in Oman and what travel insurance to get, don’t forget to consider these essentials when designing your Oman travel itinerary.
Flights to Oman
Oman is accessible via Muscat International Airport, Salalah Airport and Sohar International Airport. Check out Kayak to fiind the best deals on flights to Oman.
Accommodation in Oman
As a long-time rewards member, Hotels.com is my first stop when exploring accommodation options. Not only do they have great inventory, but you get a free nights stay after every 10th booking.
Car Hire in Oman
You can compare Oman car hire options at RentalCars.com. Driving in Oman is epic, just be sure to check out the things to know before driving in Oman.
Travel Insurance in Oman
Considering travel insurance for your trip? World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 adventure activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more. (As an affiliate, we receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is information only and not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.)
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